Mystery Diner: Unaka Valley Market & Diner — A quiet place in the midst of recovery

As Thanksgiving approaches, the ongoing recovery from Hurricane Helene is still underway. Since September, the efforts of so many recovery workers repairing and rebuilding what the storm had either destroyed or carried off is really remarkable, highlighting the resilience, the perseverance and open-handedness of our hill-folk. We also cannot forget the volunteers, both from inside as well as outside the state of Tennessee. But for their unstoppable stamina, unflappable sense of humor and boundless knowledge and experience in disaster recovery, we all would have a lot less to be thankful about this season. Noted also is the fact that communities affected by Helene invariably have a few (in some cases just one) locations where the residents, their neighbors and the recovery workers can gather. The location is often a church, a school, even a favorite local diner or store. One such store can be found on Tennessee Highway 107 in Unicoi County. The name of the business is Unaka Valley Market & Diner. Getting there As a market site serving the Limestone Cove community of Unicoi County for more than 50 years, Unaka Valley Market & Diner is the latest occupant of the property. Many are the residents and travelers stopping in for directions and supplies. Equally numerous are hunters and sport fishermen visiting Limestone Cove who stop in to stock up on coffee, sodas, snacks and sandwiches. To visit Unaka Valley Market & Diner, take U.S. Highway 19W to the town of Unicoi. Turning left onto Tennessee Highway 107, you are soon surrounded by the serene beauty of Limestone Cove. After about 10 minutes of unparalleled mountain scenery, you enter the community of Limestone Cove itself. Just past Limestone Cove Methodist Church is Unaka Valley Market & Diner. Ample parking is available outside the building. Once inside As you enter Unaka Valley Market & Diner, a cashier station and order counter are immediately on your right. Restroom access is found nearby. The "Market" portion of the business occupies the front portion of the building, with the "Diner" seating area found to the rear. It contains five tables, with total seating for about 20 or so customers. Selections At one time, my dining partner's father was the preacher at the church next to Unaka Valley Market & Diner. On this version of our Saturday jaunt, we contacted dine-around bunch member the Pet Whisperer to join us on a trip south from Johnson City to check on the extent of the damage, if any. Luckily, there was almost no evidence of food or storm damage to the church or the surrounding area. So it was that the Pet Whisperer, my dining partner and I stopped in at Unaka Valley Market & Diner for a bite to eat. Karen was our capable server and cashier, with Market owner Steve Vivens in charge of the grill. A current menu is displayed above the cashier's counter, which is what my dining partner used to order her lunch — a fried chicken sandwich ($11.99) with a side order of french fries ($1). The Pet Whisperer was next, ordering the fish 'n chips ($15.99). My choice was a supreme salad ($11.99). All drinks are by the bottle, purchased from the Market's cold drinks refrigerated cases nearby. How it tastes My dining partner was very pleased with her fried chicken sandwich. This two-handed meal begins with a hamburger-sized brioche bun holding a whole boneless breast of chicken (fried or grilled), together with a mixture of spring greens, tomato, pickle, red onion and American cheese, all of it grilled and toasted just so. Her french fries were also quite good, despite being commissary-grade, and quite fresh. The Pet Whisperer's fish 'n' chips were excellent: fresh-sliced codfish dipped in a thin but crunchy-good seafood batter and quickly deep-fried to a golden brown, as were her french fries. I had a taste, and hadn't had fried cod as good since my trip to the beach. My supreme salad began with fresh spring mix greens (arugula, spinach, Bibb lettuce and such) topped with diced deli-smoked turkey, deli-sliced "city" ham, and bits and crumbles of very lean fried bacon. Rounding out the salad were sliced cherry tomatoes, sliced cucumber, onions and mushrooms, all topped with shredded cheddar cheese and ranch salad dressing, I had a savory and smart lunch, with enough left over "for later." Final thoughts Unaka Valley Market & Diner is sure to be a welcome member of the Limestone Cove community of Unicoi County. Owner Steve Vivens definitely knows his way around a kitchen. With the capable and friendly Karen running front-of-house and helping customers using the market for supplies, Unicoi Valley Market & Deli should be around to continue supporting the ongoing Helene recovery effort, and Unicoi County for a long time afterward. And that is a good thing, indeed. Unaka Valley Market & Diner 2421 TN Highway 107 Unicoi, Tennessee Tue – Sun 10 a.m. – 7 p.m. Mon – 10 a.m. – 3 p.m. Dine-in, Carry-out 220-3018 Credit cards accepted